ABS problems: warping, cracking, fumes, layer splits

This guide is for ABS prints that lift at the corners, crack or split between layers, stick badly, smell strongly, or come out bubbly or undersized. It collects what Bambu Lab, Prusa, Polymaker, eSUN, Overture, ELEGOO and Creality say about their own ABS, scoped to the product or printer each one names. For the general causes of warping and weak layers in any material, see our warping guide and layer adhesion guide. Start here:

Does ABS need an enclosure?

Every maker here requires or recommends an enclosure for ABS, though the wording differs, and Creality says its Hyper ABS supports open printing:

The chamber temperatures the makers give:

Polymaker says that in an enclosed machine, let the bed "sit at its printing temperature for around 5-10 minutes to allow the ambient air to heat up" before a print that's likely to warp. On Bambu's enclosed printers, the filament guide's plate table says "NO" to removing the upper glass cover for ABS, unlike PLA and PETG.

Open-frame printers

Bambu's A1 FAQ says that because of its open frame and lower chamber temperature, the A1 "is prone to reduced interlayer strength when using high-temperature filaments." It doesn't recommend ABS on the A1 for large models, or models with high infill, that need strong layers. It says ABS can be used on the A1 "for printing small-sized models with low infill densities." Bambu also says "we don't recommend enclosing the A1."

Without an enclosure, Prusa's ABS guide offers "one simple alternative": turn on the draft shield in PrusaSlicer. See the draft shield notes under Warping below.

Our enclosure planning guide covers what an enclosure does and doesn't do. If you decide your printer needs one, our printer enclosure shortlist lists options.

Part size limits

Several makers say ABS sets a limit on part size, not only on settings:

• Polymaker PolyLite ABS: "In general a non-enclosed 3D printer with 90˚C bed temperature and 260˚C printing temperature can handle models smaller than fist size." Bigger prints need an enclosed printer at about 40–50 °C, and "for models bigger than ~15-20cm in any direction, it will require an actively heated chamber (~70˚C+)."
• Bambu Lab ABS: "ABS is prone to warping when printing a large size and/or high infill density model." Its first tip is "Not recommended to print too large size and/or high infill density model."
• Bambu Lab warping guide: "Large flat models printed in ABS, ASA, or PC will almost always warp without an enclosure." Without one, it says to switch to PLA, PLA-CF, PETG or PETG-CF for large prints.
• Prusa: "you may probably not be able to print objects covering the whole print area using ABS, so it is better to replace ABS with PETG filament." Prusa says PETG "does not have the same tendency to crack/de-laminate." If you switch, our PETG printing problems guide covers that material's own quirks.

If the part doesn't need ABS's heat resistance, our PETG vs ABS guide and ABS vs ASA guide compare the alternatives.

Warping

Bambu's ABS store page gives three fixes: don't print too large or too dense, "use enclosure printers and ensure the build plate is properly glued before printing," and "set lower printing speed and higher heatbed temperature." The other makers add:

• Bambu Lab warping guide: for corners lifting on ABS or ASA, raise the bed temperature by 10–15 °C and "close all doors and top cover." For large flat models, it suggests Gyroid infill at 25% or less.
• Polymaker: "printing ABS as slow as possible on your machine, along with printing temperatures up to around 250-260°C, can help to reduce these internal stresses, and thus, reduce warping."
• Prusa: "for high-temperature materials such as PC-Blend, ASA, or ABS, try using a printed skirt (draft shield)," print more objects at once, and "orient the problematic parts of the objects towards the center of the heatbed." It also says to decrease the print speed.
• eSUN ABS+: "Turn off or reduce the cooling fan to minimize shrinkage and warping."
• Prusa, on drafts: when ventilating the room, "do not create a draft around the print."

Draft shields, skirts and brims

PrusaSlicer's draft shield "creates a skirt as tall as the tallest object in the scene." Prusa says it "can be used to protect ABS, ASA, and other materials from warping by creating a micro-climate around the printed part and protecting the print from draft/wind." Its ABS guide says the draft shield "will keep the model slightly warmer and mitigate the warping."

For brims, Polymaker says "you will need a brim on any material that has a high shrinkage rate and high internal stress rate such as ABS." Bambu suggests brim ears on the corners that lift. Prusa says that if a brim isn't enough, try adding a small, few-layer-tall shape, such as a tiny cylinder, at the problem area.

Our warping guide covers plate cleaning, first-layer checks and drafts for any material.

Layer splits and cracking

Bambu says interlayer cracking along the Z direction "is common during printing with materials such as ABS, ASA, PC, PET-CF, and PA-CF." Its fixes, in order:

1. Clear a partial clog. A slight clog "may prevent filament extrusion during a specific layer, manifesting similarly to cracking."
2. Raise the nozzle temperature or slow down. "For example, with ABS, you can reduce the inner wall speed to 150 mm/s and the outer wall speed to 100 mm/s."
3. Reduce the part cooling fan, lowering "Max fan speed" if the walls are being cooled at 60%.
4. Raise the bed by 5–10 °C, and the chamber by 5 °C if the printer has active chamber heating.

Prusa says "ABS is highly susceptible to layer separation when there's any sort of cold air blowing on the print before it has cooled down fully," and that "ABS is best printed in an enclosed chamber (even heated)." Polymaker's layer adhesion guide says that for ABS or ASA it prefers a 0.6 mm nozzle and prints "very slow and very hot": "We actually print ABS around 260°C and at around 35mm/s." Its warping guide says delamination "can be unavoidable on tall ABS prints not in an enclosed environment," and suggests less infill, a couple more shell walls, and printing slower and hotter.

Should the part fan be on or off?

Start from the fan setting your filament's maker gives, and change it in small steps. If you raise the fan for overhangs and the layers start cracking, Prusa says to try "increasing the nozzle temperature to restore the bonding of the individual layers together properly."

Our layer adhesion guide covers the other checks.

Bed, plate and glue

Bambu adds three plate rules for its own plates:

• Smooth PEI Plate: "Only PLA filament does not require glue, while printing with other filaments requires the use of gluing to prevent the PEI sheet from tearing."
• Textured PEI Plate: "When printing PC/PA/ABS/ASA filaments on a Textured PEI Plate, it may be necessary to apply a layer of glue stick."
• Cool Plate SuperTack: Bambu ABS is "Not compatible with Cool Plate SuperTack."

On Prusa printers, Prusa's smooth sheet article says ABS may need "a protective separation layer, like gluestick, applied thinly before printing." In the comments on Prusa's ABS article, a reader asked what release agent to use after ABS tore a chunk off their PEI sheet, and a reply marked "Official Prusa" says "PVA Glue stick." Polymaker's warping guide mentions an "ABS slurry" for large non-circular ABS prints if you can't hold an ambient temperature of about 45 °C. Prusa says ABS juice can be applied to its smooth sheet, but "should not be used in combination with textured or satin sheets."

Polymaker says to let the build plate cool before removing the part. For freeing a stuck part or a damaged sheet, see our print stuck to the bed guide and PEI sheet damage guide.

Fumes and ventilation

These are the makers' own statements about their ABS. We don't add to them.

• Prusa: lists "Potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)" as a con, and says to "run the prints in a well-ventilated room because the material releases fumes and substances that could pose a potential health risk." It also says not to create a draft around the print when ventilating.
• Bambu Lab ABS: "Pungent and unpleasant odors may be released during printing. Make sure your printer is placed in a well-ventilated area." Its safety tips say "this filament may release harmful gases, including styrene, which can cause dizziness or nausea," recommend an enclosed printer, a "protective mask with a vapor filter (such as an activated carbon mask)" for extended operation, and more ventilation or a pause in printing if people with asthma or respiratory conditions, pregnant women, or children are present.
• Bambu Lab A1: "ABS and ASA release harmful and irritating gases during printing," so Bambu recommends "not to use A1 for printing ABS and ASA unless in well-ventilated environments at a safe distance from people."
• Polymaker PolyLite ABS: "Print with an enclosure and good ventilation."
• eSUN ABS+: "Ensure the printing area is well ventilated."
• Overture ABS: "ABS may emit fumes during the 3D printing process." It says to print "in a well-ventilated space, such as by opening a window or door, while keeping the printer's door closed."

Polymaker says PolyLite ABS has "significantly lower volatile content than traditional ABS," and Creality says Hyper ABS releases "fewer volatile substances." Those are each maker's claims for its own product, and Polymaker still calls for good ventilation. Our PLA vs ABS guide and enclosure planning guide cover ventilation and filtration in more detail.

Drying

Bambu says "do not use a microwave oven or a kitchen oven to dry filaments." Bambu's data sheet says to print and store its ABS below 20% RH, sealed with desiccant. Our wet filament guide covers how to tell if a spool is damp.

Shrinkage

Prusa says "ABS-printed parts tend to shrink slightly after cooling down," with a shrinkage factor "usually somewhere around 1-2%." It recommends "printing a testing object and comparing it with a source model." eSUN's ABS+ data sheet says "the shrinkage rate of ABS+ material is large, so you should pay attention to heat preservation when printing." For tolerance checks, see our dimensional accuracy guide.

What are the side effects of a hot enclosure?

• Printer parts. Prusa says "printing inside an enclosure can lead to deformation of the fan shroud and other plastic parts," and suggests printing those parts from a more heat-resistant material such as Prusament PC Blend.
• Electronics. Polymaker says "stepper motors and other electronics can overheat" when the ambient air gets this hot. It suggests keeping the power supply and board outside the chamber if possible.
• Feeding on Bambu printers. Bambu's ABS store page says "AMS lite NOT Compatible," and its filament guide marks ABS "Not Recommended" for the AMS lite.

A sensible order

1. Confirm your printer and filament maker support ABS on your setup, and that the part is within the size they suggest.
2. Dry the spool to its maker's setting.
3. Clean the plate and apply glue where your plate maker says to.
4. Close the enclosure and let the chamber warm up before printing.
5. Set the bed, nozzle and fan from the filament maker's numbers.
6. Add a brim, and a draft shield if your printer is open.
7. If corners still lift, slow down and raise the bed within range.
8. If layers split, cut the fan, raise the nozzle temperature slightly and slow the walls.
9. Print in a well-ventilated area, as Prusa, Bambu, Polymaker, eSUN and Overture say.

Checklist

• Enclosed printer, or a small, low-infill part if your printer is open.
• Chamber warm: 45–60 °C in Bambu's and ELEGOO's figures, at least 50 °C in Polymaker's warping guide.
• Glue on the plate, and never Bambu's Cool Plate SuperTack.
• Bed inside the filament maker's range.
• Fan off or low, as your filament maker says.
• Brim on, and a draft shield where there's no enclosure.
• No drafts across the printer.
• Filament dried to its maker's setting and stored below 20% RH.
• A test piece measured if the part has to fit something.
• A well-ventilated room. On a Bambu A1, ABS only in a well-ventilated space at a safe distance from people.

If you're still choosing a spool, our ABS shortlist compares the spools themselves.

How this guide was checked

This is a research-based guide. We haven't run these tests for it. Every setting, quote and recommendation comes from the Bambu Lab, Prusa Research, Polymaker, eSUN, Overture, ELEGOO and Creality pages and data sheets listed in the sources, retrieved on 2026-10-13. Settings and claims are kept to the product or printer each page names, and where makers disagree we show both. Safety statements are the makers' own. Read more in our editorial standards.

ABS: what to check before you buy a spool ↗